|
All
About Bits
|
How
to Choose
ALIXE ETHERINGTON knows that there's plenty to think about when
choosing a bit to suit your horse and getting it right can make
all the difference to your horse's performance. The following are
exerts from her book "A Bit of Magic".
|
| Not all
problems with the horse ultimately relate to biting, therefore,
always review and take into account all the other factors, before
presuming it's the bit!! Although there are numerous points
of control on the horse that the rider can potentially use to
communicate, the only ones that a bit uses are those contained
on the head of the horse. The head, in order to act as the horse's
counterbalance, is very heavy and the horse balances himself
by moving his head accordingly. The bit therefore, gives the
rider an ability to position and control the head, and place
it according to the aid given. There are basically seven points
of control that the bit can work on. These are:- |
|
- the
POLL
- the
NOSE and
- the
CURB GROOVE
- the
CORNERS of the lips
- the
upper and lower BARS
- the
TONGUE and
- the
ROOF
|
|
|
In
order to simplify, bits can be broken down into 5 families,
based on the points of control that they can use. These are:-
SNAFFLES
when
used on their own, operate using only the points
of control within the mouth. Generally there is
no flexion of the poll or lower jaw and in most
cases, the result is an upwards and backwards movement
of the horse's head, towards the rider's hands. |
|
DOUBLE
BRIDLE
is
used in order to obtain finer positioning of the
head. A curb bit is added to the Snaffle (which
is now called a bradoon), but works exactly the
same as it did when used on its own. The curb introduces
poll and curb groove pressure. |
|
PELHAM
attempts
the same results as a double bridle, but using only
one bit. It works on the points of control in the
mouth, plus the poll and curb groove. Double reins
should be used so that the curb action is exerted
only when required. |
|
GAG
to
raise the horse's head by use of the roof and upper
bars. Should be used on two reins, so that the snaffle
action can be used for the general riding and only
when necessary the correctional gag rein can raise
the horse's head. |
|
HACKAMORE
/ BITLESS BRIDLE
as
there is no mouthpiece, this form of bridle only
uses the points of control outside of the horse's
mouth, particularly the nose. |
|
The
above is intended to be a quick reference guide to families,
for more information, please refer to "A Bit of Magic"
by Alixe Etherington w |
 |
Remember,
when a bit is just resting in the horse's mouth, it isn't
operating and therefore the catalyse in every situation is
the rider's hands. The strongest of bits can be mild when
not activated and the concept of the severity highlights the
care required by the rider in the use of their hands.
|
|
|
How
to Size
Choosing the
correct size of bit is essential if it is to work properly. This
sounds obvious, but is often neglected as bits get changed from
one horse to another.
|
Sizing
the Width Fitting
Using
a bit that you already have, pull the bit through the
horse's mouth, so that the cheek on one side lies flush
against the horse's face. You should then be able to fit
one to two fingers in between the cheek of the bit and
the horse's lips on the opposite side. |
|
Correct
Height
Alter
the cheekpieces until the bit lies in the correct position
in the horse's mouth, which usually means a small wrinkle
at each corner. A common mistake is fitting the bit to
high, so that the horse has a huge grin. It should not
be too low either, otherwise the bit can bang on the horse's
teeth. |
|
Correct
Thickness
If
the horse has a large fleshy tongue or shallow pallet,
the available space in the mouth won't accommodate a thicker
mouthpiece and will result in a squashing feeling if you
chose to use one. Therefore, when faced with a large,
fleshy tongue or a shallow pallet, a slimer mouthpiece
is the only option. |
|
|
|
Buying
Checklist
When walking
into a retail shop, we normally find it inundated with a hugmangas
array of different styles and brands of bits, not to mention materials.
Therefore it's always best to have an idea of what it is you want
before you go in. Cheap is not always cheerful, but expensive doesn't
always mean good, so be careful and look at the product.
|
| 1)
Choose
a branded product, preferably carrying an information
booklet. The brand, will give surety of the product, so
in the event of a problem you have someone to go back
to. |
|
| 2)
A
guarantee, or product liability insurance on the product
is a must! The sport is a dangerous one at best, and the
bit is one of the safety critical pieces of equipment
that we use. |
|
| 3)
Run
your hands over the product, although your skin is not
as sensitive as the horse's mouth, it will give you an
idea of what the horse will feel. There should be no rough
edges or sharp points, as these can cut the horse's mouth. |
|
| 4)
All
the joints should move smoothly and freely, but should
not be overlie loose. The product shouldn't have any holes
or cracks, as these are often defects, in the casting
process, which can cause the product to be unsafe and
not fit for the purpose. |
|
|
|
"A
Bit of Magic"
The case for
COPPER, stated clearly in these exerts from Alixe Etherington's
book "A Bit of Magic".
|
COPPER
Although
Copper is not a particularly strong material, when coupled
with other metals in the form of an alloy, it can take on
strength properties not unlike those that we expect from Stainless
Steel. They are however, prone to require more respect when
cleaning and are substantially more expensive, but then Copper
is a precious metal! Although many people are put off by the
cost, at the end of the day with regard to tack, you get what
you pay for and Copper content bits are claimed by the manufacturers
of the 'KANGAROO' brand, to be the ones your horse would choose!
If only our horses could talk our language, it would be so
simple!! Yet with copper content materials, the horse more
readily salivates and accepts the bit, the top line relaxes
and the horse readily moves forward. Surely this is our indication
that the horse is trying to tell us that copper content is
right! Copper is affected by the increase in heat, far faster
than a material like Stainless Steel. If you hold a Copper
content bit in one hand and a Stainless Steel bit in the other,
very quickly you'll feel the Copper one warm to your body
temperature, whereas the Stainless Steel one will continue
to feel cold. This is a not dissimilar feeling to that which
the horse experiences within his mouth after you've presented
the bit. Whilst pure Copper is a brilliant mouthing material,
on its own, it is soft and inclined to wear quickly. In order
to give it longevity, it is normally mixed with other metals
in an alloy form. For biting purposes, Nickel, although expensive,
provides a valuable asset to the properties of Copper. It
gives strength and longevity with a silver colour.
|
|
KANGAROO
Over the
years, there have been many names in biting associated with
copper content materials. Probably the best known is the English
manufactured, "Kangaroo" brand, having been in existence for
in excess of 100 years. Whilst certain trace elements of the
material remain a trade secret, the basic consistency of the
euphemistically called "Kangaroo Metal", is 70% Copper and
30% Nickel. It is surprisingly silver in colour and to the
uninitiated eye or a tack judge at a competition, it appears
for all intense and purposes, to look like Stainless Steel,
but there the similarity ends. Due to its copper content,
I believe "Kangaroo" gives a major advantage over those who
compete in Stainless bits, but don't tell too many people,
each man or horse for himself! Right!!
|
|
STAINLESS
STEEL,
a metal most
of us would consider synonymous with biting, was only developed
around the 1920's, many centuries after the first bit was ever
made out of metal. It's advent was of great advantage to cutlery
manufacturers, who found that it's retention of sharp edges,
especially for knives, superb strength and the properties of
being rust-free and easy to clean, was much better than any
of the metals previously available. This coupled with the incorporation
of Stainless Steel in the car manufacturing industry, which
had since the early 1900's started to replace horse drawn transportation,
saw a huge increase in the volumes required and thus the market
price became more economical. Following the advent of the motor
vehicle, the saddlery manufacturing industry in England went
into decline and although riding has since become an established
leisure sport, many of the old style craftsmen and their knowledge
have now been lost. As Stainless Steel had become a more cost
effective and available material, it's uses were expanded. Unfortunately,
with the old concepts and values out of the way, it was introduced
as a biting material, when the prices of Nickel and Copper rose
to a state that was considered by many to be prohibitive. However,
in recent years, it came to the attention that more and more
horses had become dry mouthed and started to back off, rather
than accept the bit. |
|
|
